The Occasional Odd Crop

The Occasional Odd Thought

Music matters; the wrong music matters more

Dani and I had lunch on Saturday at the Princess Pub and Grille, an English-style spot in Little Italy. Despite some concessions to its physical location (fish tacos, outdoor seating in October), there was plenty of Britishness to savor.

My banger on a roll was excellent, as were the chips with curry sauce. And the interior wouldn't have been out of place in London or Northampton.

Then I noticed the music. The current selection was "All Apologies" by Nirvana. And I realized that every song we'd heard since we sat down was by a U.S. artist. A little later, as if to hammer the point home, they played "American Woman." The Lenny Kravitz version, not the original, which at least came from a country with the queen of England on its money.

It reminded me of our visit a few months back to the Red Pearl, a swanky Chinese restaurant downtown. This place was great. The food was fantastic, and the atmosphere matched it — low lighting, lots of dark wood and deep red. They really nailed it.

Except for the music, which was U.S. pop — Foo Fighters, No Doubt, that sort of thing. It didn't fit. It was like going to watch the Padres and seeing a jai alai match break out instead.

In a restaurant, the music sets the mood as much as the decor choices or the menu typography. The wrong music is at least a bit offputting, as at the Princess, and it can come close to wrecking the mood, as at the Red Pearl.

You're carving out a bit of Britain in San Diego? Play some obscure Cream, Petula Clark or, if you must (and you probably do), the Beatles. Hell, the Spice Girls or All Saints would at least add some kitsch value.

You run an upscale Chinese place? Find some Asian-inspired ambient or techno, or some Chinese pop or folk music that blends with the atmosphere.

Whatever you choose, your restaurant shouldn't sound like the radio in my car.